Rouen

Rouen is a small city, half-way between Paris and Le Havre on the Seine. There are many pedestrian-only streets, and some alleys and narrow streets where the buildings lean into the street, almost touching on the third floor. There are small museums and several interesting cathedrals and churches. The river is surrounded by noisy thoroughfares; most of the walking happens between a block from the river and the train station several blocks up from the river.

Getting to Rouen

From Paris, Gare St. Lazare, take SNCF trains towards Le Havre; some stop first in Rouen, some stop at several stops in between Paris and Rouen.

Sites and Sights

Cathedral (Notre-Dame)

Cathedral frequently painted by Monet, illustrates the phases of Gothic architecture from 1201-1514. Near central Pl de la Cathedrale", on the west side of which in the Bureau des Finances (1509 by Roulland le Roux). Admission is free. The cathedral is closed from 12h-14h.

Monument de St-Romain (1542)

Renaissance monument where the fierte or reliquary of that saint was yearly raised for the worship of the crowd by a condemned prisoner released on the recommendation of the cathedral chapter, a practice that was discontinued in 1790. Located on a lane opposite the Rue de Change, which skirts the South facade of the cathedral.

17th c walls of the old Halles

Portions of these old walls can be seen adjacent to the Monument de St-Romain.

Porte Guillaume-Lion (1749)

Lone surviving building flanking the quays. East of the Halles walls. Rest of the buildings were probably bombed or destroyed by fire in WWII when Rouen was occupied by the Germans.

Rue St Romain

This street skirts the N side of the Cathedral and retains several ancient houses, included the restored Vielle Maison of 1466. The narrow streets of this quarter contain a large number of quaint half-timbered houses of great age, the beams and gables protected by tiles. In 1525, an ordinance was promulgated forbidding the erection of buildings with storeys overhanging the streets, already narrow and dark enough, and as a general rule, those thus built were erected prior to that date.

St Maclou (1437-1521)

Church designed by Pierre Robin with a bow-shaped facade of five pinnacled arches. The spire was added in 1868, replacing the earlier one destroyed in 1794. The richly decorated doorways and decorately carved doors (cleaner on the interior), are noteworthy; also the Renaissance stained glass and organ loft (by Jean Goujon, 1521) with its openwork and stone spiral staircase (1512). Severe damage was done to the E end and S side of the church in 1944.

St Ouen (1318-1500s)

Church more uniform in style and larger than the main cathedral, but dull building architecturally.

Hotel de Ville

Restored 18th c. buildings of the abbey, on the N side of St Ouen, facing the Pl. du Gen-de-Gaulle. Passage between lead to gardens and good general view of St. Ouen.

Lycee, a former Jesuit College

Rue Louis-Ricard climbs N from Pl. du Gen-de-Gaulle. Chapel (1614-56) is next to the Lycee. Famous pupils: Pierre and Thomas Corneille, La Salle, Beradin de St-Pierre, Flaubert, Corot, Delacroix, Maupassant, and Andres Maurois.

Musee des Antiquites

Museum of Antiquities, on the left beyond the Lycee on the Rue Louis-Ricard. Occupies the buildings of a former 17th c convent and its cloisters. Collection includes carved beams, pilasterrs, rescued from destroyed buildings, examples of 12-13th c Limoges enamel reliquaries, 13-15th c ivories, medieval chests and furniture, and a large Roman mosaic pavement from Lillebonne. A natural history collection is housed adjacent.

Musee des Beaux Arts

Rue Thiers, west of the Pl du Gen. de Gaulle. Works include David's Virgin and the Saints, Caravaggio's Flagellation, Dutch and Flemish schools, 19th c. French school, Impressionist pieces. see http://www.rouen-musees.com/Infos-pratiques

Timed lock with fanciful metalwork at Musée Le Secq Des Tournelles

Musee Le Secq des Tournelles

Museum housed in the former church of St Laurent (1444-1554) features a collection of Ironwork. (chairs, stairs and also smaller objects such as scissors, lecterns, domestic and kitchen implements, irons, combs, etc. see http://www.rouen-musees.com/Infos-pratiques

Rue Jeanne d'Arc

This street leads downhill pas the Rue des Bons Enfants (preserving some old houses). Some sites: 19th c facade of the Law Courts, behind is which Rue aux Juifs, extends the Palais de Justice, impressive specimen of late Gothic architecture, shows signs of mutilation from 1944.

Rue des Gros Horloge

Pedestrian street features striking group of buildings, including a Renaissance Gatehouse (1527), with an elaborate clock face with a single hand, a tall belfry of 1389, and a little 17th c corner pavillion with a fountain of 1732. Belfry may be ascended for the view. On the Corner of Rue Thouret is the old town hall of 1607.

Pl du Vieux Marche

Square surrounded by restaurants. This whole area has been drastically reconstructed with a neo-medieval market-hall, a 15th century facade from the Abbaye de St Armand (on the west side), relics from St. vincent, and a chapel marks the site of the pyre where on 30 May 1432 Joan of Arc was burnt.

Hotel-Dieu

Rue de Crosne, leading west from Place du Vieux Marche, 18th c. hospital where Flaubert's father was a surgeon. Has been converted into a Museum devoted to the author.

Eating

There are many Afghan, berber, indian, and other interesting restaurants in Rouen. Food is cheaper here than in Paris.

Kashemir (Indien)

13 Rue Anatole France, 76000 Rouen (SW, Rive Droite). 02 35 71 85 89‎

Pascaline, Le Bistro Comptoir

Pascaline

Le Bistro Comptoir (the buffet bistro). 5 Rue de la Poterne - 76000 ROUEN - Tél. : 02 35 89 67 44. Reservations accepted. Open seven days a week. A vegetarian-friendly buffet in a well-decorated bistro. Salad, entree, and dessert for 14€50 (2009).

See also

Paris

photos of Rouen taken by me 2009-12-31

References

Blue Guide, France. Somerset Books.