Difference between revisions of "Renovation and Weatherization List"

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Work Plan
+
See [[File:ReevesNashHomeAssessmentPre2010.pdf]] for the audit we got December 2009.
#Insulate and air seal main attic ($1780):
+
===Work Plan 2010-2011===
**Insulate existing hatch with foam board.  Weatherstrip hatch.  Build baffle around hatch to prevent insulation spillage.
+
#Insulate and air seal main attic ($1780 SP):
**Air sealing--general.  Expose and seal all top plates using spray foam.  Seal electrical penetrations, gaps between framing and sheetrock, plumbing stacks, etc.  Lay insulation back down when done.
+
##Insulate existing hatch with foam board.  Weatherstrip hatch.  Build baffle around hatch to prevent insulation spillage.
**Blow cellulose insulation.  Add blown cellulose insulation to fill gaps and voids in existing insulation and bring overall R value to R-50.
+
##Air sealing--general.  Expose and seal all top plates using spray foam.  Seal electrical penetrations, gaps between framing and sheetrock, plumbing stacks, etc.  Lay insulation back down when done.
**Ceiling slopes.  Fill empty sloped ceiling cavities with cellulose insulation to ensure complete fill.
+
##Blow cellulose insulation.  Add blown cellulose insulation to fill gaps and voids in existing insulation and bring overall R value to R-50.
**Some electrical work may be required to remove/ disconnect any discovered knob and tube wiring.  
+
##Ceiling slopes.  Fill empty sloped ceiling cavities with cellulose insulation to ensure complete fill.
#Insulate and air seal 4 kneewall attics ($2730):
+
##Some electrical work may be required to remove/ disconnect any discovered knob and tube wiring.  
**Cut hatches to 3 inaccessible kneewall attics.  Build secure trimwork to hold new hatches in place.  Prime trim.
+
#Insulate and air seal 4 kneewall attics ($2730 SP):
**Alison to paint the trimwork once completed.  
+
##Cut hatches to 3 inaccessible kneewall attics.  Build secure trimwork to hold new hatches in place.  Prime trim.
**Some electrical work may be required to remove/ disconnect any discovered knob and tube wiring.  
+
##Alison to paint the trimwork once completed.  
**Install rigid foil-faced fire-rated polyisocyanurate foamboard (Thermax, R-6.5) on vertical walls.  Seal all seams.  Seal gaps around perimeter with expanding foam.  Block accessible floor joist cavities in attics with appropriate air-impermeable materials.
+
##Some electrical work may be required to remove/ disconnect any discovered knob and tube wiring.  
**Air sealing.  Expose and seal all gaps in kneewall attic floors with spray foam.  Lay any existing insulation back when done.
+
##Install rigid foil-faced fire-rated polyisocyanurate foamboard (Thermax, R-6.5) on vertical walls.  Seal all seams.  Seal gaps around perimeter with expanding foam.  Block accessible floor joist cavities in attics with appropriate air-impermeable materials.
**Blow cellulose insulation.  Add blown cellulose insulation to fill gaps and voids in existing insulation and bring overall R value to R-50.
+
##Air sealing.  Expose and seal all gaps in kneewall attic floors with spray foam.  Lay any existing insulation back when done.
#Weatherize windows:  
+
##Blow cellulose insulation.  Add blown cellulose insulation to fill gaps and voids in existing insulation and bring overall R value to R-50.
**Repair/ replace sashes on all windows. Replace broken sash cords. Add metal or rubber permanent weatherization strips where missing to insure tight seal when closed. Replace cracked glass with new glass or use old glass from windows from Significant Elements. Skilled carpenter needed.  
+
#Weatherize windows: (Estimate $200-$300 per window)
**Replace aluminum storm windows with new Low E glazed storm windows. Repair exis. historic screen/ glass storm windows to insure a tight seal. Add permanent weather stripping in lieu of replaceable caulk cord. Skilled carpenter needed.  
+
##Repair/ replace sashes on all windows. Replace broken sash cords. Add metal or rubber permanent weatherization strips where missing to ensure tight seal when closed. Replace cracked glass with new glass or use old glass from windows from Significant Elements. Skilled carpenter needed.  
**Repair glazing on exterior of all windows. Repaint exterior of windows. Alison can repaint.  
+
##Replace aluminum storm windows with new Low E glazed storm windows. Repair existing historic screen/glass storm windows for fit. Add permanent weather stripping in lieu of replaceable caulk cord. Skilled carpenter needed.  
**While sashes are out, restore finish on interior of window trim where splintery or dry.  
+
##Repair glazing on exterior of all windows. Repaint exterior of windows. Alison can repaint.
#Electrical work to be completed prior to insulating walls:  
+
##While sashes are out, restore finish on interior of window trim where splintered or dry.
**Replace all wiring on exterior walls that may be original to house. Compile detailed list based on circuit diagram.
+
##Ensure all basement windows are sealed, including west wall larger windows.
**Add additional outlets to rooms that have only one or two. Compile detailed list.  
+
#Improve weatherization and operation of doors: Need carpenter, could be same person that helps with the windows.$800-$1000 (If front door hardware is replaced, add $1000)
**Replace ceiling fixture in Third floor Guest Room, Studio, and Gable Room. Perhaps purchase two new hallway fixtures and use existing hallway fixtures in Guest Room and Studio.  
+
##Replace transition with weather strip/ transition combination for front door, add to side and back doors.
#Painting: Interior this summer:  
+
##Lubricate door hinges (graphite).
**In conjunction with interior window trim work, the following rooms could be painted in the following order:  
+
##Repair operation of first double door so that it works smoothly and is weather tight. Add closers to both doors if desired.
 +
##Investigate with help of a skilled carpenter if a deadbolt could be installed in lieu of turn knob/ key combination. Perhaps front door hardware could be changed entirely to new mortise set.
 +
##Restore missing chunk from bottom of first double door.
 +
##Restore cracked portion of side door.
 +
##Investigate alternate glazing or storm for side door- western sun heats up the space between the storm door and the wood door and has cracked the wood over time.
 +
#Replace treads of front steps with red or white cedar
 +
##Remove existing treads, check area beneath
 +
##Prime bottom and sides (with two coats) of replacement treads
 +
##Repaint top treads of steps, using sand for traction.  
 +
#Electrical work to be completed prior to insulating walls: (Estimate $1500-$2000)
 +
##Replace all wiring on exterior walls that may be original to house. Compile detailed list based on circuit diagram.
 +
##Add additional outlets to rooms that have only one or two. Compile detailed list.  
 +
##Replace ceiling fixture in Third floor Guest Room, Studio, and Gable Room. Perhaps purchase two new hallway fixtures and use existing hallway fixtures in Guest Room and Studio.  
 +
#Painting: Interior this summer: (Estimate $80-$150 each room for supplies)
 +
##In conjunction with interior window trim work, the following rooms could be painted in the following order:  
 
##Studio ceiling, walls
 
##Studio ceiling, walls
 
##Guest bedroom ceiling, walls
 
##Guest bedroom ceiling, walls
Line 33: Line 47:
 
##Dining Room
 
##Dining Room
 
##Kitchen
 
##Kitchen
#
+
#Minor structural repairs: Contractor required for these items--not sure if some should be done in 2010, some later. $$
 +
##Bay Window- add bracing beneath. May require some weatherization to cantilevered floor at windows after work completed.
 +
##Sister cracked wood column in basement near workbench
 +
##Check attic joists at time when insulation is removed to see if any require sistering due to twisting or cracking. 
 +
#Insulate walls ($7600):
 +
##First floor: cut 2.5" holes, from exterior through trimwork, in every stud cavity.  Install densely-packed cellulose insulation in cavities.  (Cavities under windows are assumed to be inaccessible.)  Plug holes with wood plugs.  Cover with one coat of spackle.
 +
##Second and third floors:  remove selected shakes, cut 2.5" holes through sheathing.  Install densely-packed cellulose insulation in cavities, including over and under windows.  Plug holes with wood plugs.  Reinstall shakes with siding nails.
 +
##Alison's opinion: the insulation work to the walls should be done after understanding the entire wall assembly. A water resistant membrane such as Tyvek may need to be installed on the shingle portion of the exterior elevations to improve the walls air tightness. Caulking around windows, repair of rotted window sills, etc. should be completed in conjunction with this work. The repainting of the exterior should be done either before or shortly after the walls are insulated so that the patched areas can be painted.
 +
##Exhaust fan in kitchen and both bathrooms should be installed in conjunction with the house envelope becoming more tight (ie walls insulated and window trim exteriors caulked) to reduce condensation on the interior surfaces of the house.
 +
##Boiler should be replaced after walls are insulated as there will probably be a cost savings in both the equipment purchase and over the life of the boiler.
 +
 
 +
===More to do===
 +
#Renovate third floor bathroom
 +
#Renovate second floor bathroom
 +
#Renovate Kitchen
 +
#Restore front porch
 +
#Replace porch swing with more comfortable weather-resistant version, make outdoor pillows.
 +
#Paint fire escape
 +
#Replace/ repair porch roofs- check integral gutters for leaks and repair to prevent further rot. There are rotten spots on both the front and back porch already.
 +
#Back porch steps are rotten, too- maybe wait until they break to replace them as I think the stringers are rotted, too. The new steps should extend all the way to the house leaving no woodchuck gaps.
 +
 
 +
===Even more to do===
 +
I don't know when this work should be done, some I might be able to do myself:
 +
#Repair creaky stairs throughout.
 +
#Replace fireplace tile on hearth and beneath mantle. If we are thinking of a fireplace insert, the tile work should be done at the same time.
 +
#Clean basement window wells from leaves and other rotting debris
 +
#Repair/ replace fence that has fallen down.
 +
#Paint exterior. See [[Testing paint colors on a photograph]].
 +
 
 +
 
 +
[[Category:House and home]]

Latest revision as of 11:51, 15 September 2013

See File:ReevesNashHomeAssessmentPre2010.pdf for the audit we got December 2009.

Work Plan 2010-2011

  1. Insulate and air seal main attic ($1780 SP):
    1. Insulate existing hatch with foam board. Weatherstrip hatch. Build baffle around hatch to prevent insulation spillage.
    2. Air sealing--general. Expose and seal all top plates using spray foam. Seal electrical penetrations, gaps between framing and sheetrock, plumbing stacks, etc. Lay insulation back down when done.
    3. Blow cellulose insulation. Add blown cellulose insulation to fill gaps and voids in existing insulation and bring overall R value to R-50.
    4. Ceiling slopes. Fill empty sloped ceiling cavities with cellulose insulation to ensure complete fill.
    5. Some electrical work may be required to remove/ disconnect any discovered knob and tube wiring.
  2. Insulate and air seal 4 kneewall attics ($2730 SP):
    1. Cut hatches to 3 inaccessible kneewall attics. Build secure trimwork to hold new hatches in place. Prime trim.
    2. Alison to paint the trimwork once completed.
    3. Some electrical work may be required to remove/ disconnect any discovered knob and tube wiring.
    4. Install rigid foil-faced fire-rated polyisocyanurate foamboard (Thermax, R-6.5) on vertical walls. Seal all seams. Seal gaps around perimeter with expanding foam. Block accessible floor joist cavities in attics with appropriate air-impermeable materials.
    5. Air sealing. Expose and seal all gaps in kneewall attic floors with spray foam. Lay any existing insulation back when done.
    6. Blow cellulose insulation. Add blown cellulose insulation to fill gaps and voids in existing insulation and bring overall R value to R-50.
  3. Weatherize windows: (Estimate $200-$300 per window)
    1. Repair/ replace sashes on all windows. Replace broken sash cords. Add metal or rubber permanent weatherization strips where missing to ensure tight seal when closed. Replace cracked glass with new glass or use old glass from windows from Significant Elements. Skilled carpenter needed.
    2. Replace aluminum storm windows with new Low E glazed storm windows. Repair existing historic screen/glass storm windows for fit. Add permanent weather stripping in lieu of replaceable caulk cord. Skilled carpenter needed.
    3. Repair glazing on exterior of all windows. Repaint exterior of windows. Alison can repaint.
    4. While sashes are out, restore finish on interior of window trim where splintered or dry.
    5. Ensure all basement windows are sealed, including west wall larger windows.
  4. Improve weatherization and operation of doors: Need carpenter, could be same person that helps with the windows.$800-$1000 (If front door hardware is replaced, add $1000)
    1. Replace transition with weather strip/ transition combination for front door, add to side and back doors.
    2. Lubricate door hinges (graphite).
    3. Repair operation of first double door so that it works smoothly and is weather tight. Add closers to both doors if desired.
    4. Investigate with help of a skilled carpenter if a deadbolt could be installed in lieu of turn knob/ key combination. Perhaps front door hardware could be changed entirely to new mortise set.
    5. Restore missing chunk from bottom of first double door.
    6. Restore cracked portion of side door.
    7. Investigate alternate glazing or storm for side door- western sun heats up the space between the storm door and the wood door and has cracked the wood over time.
  5. Replace treads of front steps with red or white cedar
    1. Remove existing treads, check area beneath
    2. Prime bottom and sides (with two coats) of replacement treads
    3. Repaint top treads of steps, using sand for traction.
  6. Electrical work to be completed prior to insulating walls: (Estimate $1500-$2000)
    1. Replace all wiring on exterior walls that may be original to house. Compile detailed list based on circuit diagram.
    2. Add additional outlets to rooms that have only one or two. Compile detailed list.
    3. Replace ceiling fixture in Third floor Guest Room, Studio, and Gable Room. Perhaps purchase two new hallway fixtures and use existing hallway fixtures in Guest Room and Studio.
  7. Painting: Interior this summer: (Estimate $80-$150 each room for supplies)
    1. In conjunction with interior window trim work, the following rooms could be painted in the following order:
    2. Studio ceiling, walls
    3. Guest bedroom ceiling, walls
    4. Hallway/ stairs 3rd floor
    5. Hallway/ stairs 2nd floor
    6. Hallway/ stairs 1st floor
    7. Front Room
    8. Living Room
    9. Dining Room
    10. Kitchen
  8. Minor structural repairs: Contractor required for these items--not sure if some should be done in 2010, some later. $$
    1. Bay Window- add bracing beneath. May require some weatherization to cantilevered floor at windows after work completed.
    2. Sister cracked wood column in basement near workbench
    3. Check attic joists at time when insulation is removed to see if any require sistering due to twisting or cracking.
  9. Insulate walls ($7600):
    1. First floor: cut 2.5" holes, from exterior through trimwork, in every stud cavity. Install densely-packed cellulose insulation in cavities. (Cavities under windows are assumed to be inaccessible.) Plug holes with wood plugs. Cover with one coat of spackle.
    2. Second and third floors: remove selected shakes, cut 2.5" holes through sheathing. Install densely-packed cellulose insulation in cavities, including over and under windows. Plug holes with wood plugs. Reinstall shakes with siding nails.
    3. Alison's opinion: the insulation work to the walls should be done after understanding the entire wall assembly. A water resistant membrane such as Tyvek may need to be installed on the shingle portion of the exterior elevations to improve the walls air tightness. Caulking around windows, repair of rotted window sills, etc. should be completed in conjunction with this work. The repainting of the exterior should be done either before or shortly after the walls are insulated so that the patched areas can be painted.
    4. Exhaust fan in kitchen and both bathrooms should be installed in conjunction with the house envelope becoming more tight (ie walls insulated and window trim exteriors caulked) to reduce condensation on the interior surfaces of the house.
    5. Boiler should be replaced after walls are insulated as there will probably be a cost savings in both the equipment purchase and over the life of the boiler.

More to do

  1. Renovate third floor bathroom
  2. Renovate second floor bathroom
  3. Renovate Kitchen
  4. Restore front porch
  5. Replace porch swing with more comfortable weather-resistant version, make outdoor pillows.
  6. Paint fire escape
  7. Replace/ repair porch roofs- check integral gutters for leaks and repair to prevent further rot. There are rotten spots on both the front and back porch already.
  8. Back porch steps are rotten, too- maybe wait until they break to replace them as I think the stringers are rotted, too. The new steps should extend all the way to the house leaving no woodchuck gaps.

Even more to do

I don't know when this work should be done, some I might be able to do myself:

  1. Repair creaky stairs throughout.
  2. Replace fireplace tile on hearth and beneath mantle. If we are thinking of a fireplace insert, the tile work should be done at the same time.
  3. Clean basement window wells from leaves and other rotting debris
  4. Repair/ replace fence that has fallen down.
  5. Paint exterior. See Testing paint colors on a photograph.